Article V
CELTIC DRESS
One of the many questions that I encounter concerns the use of kilts and tartans. One should be aware that the tartan setts as we know them today were designed by the Scottish during the 18th and 19th centuries. The setts refer a a number of colors that denote position within the Scottish gentry, called tanistry. Scottish and Irish gentrys were both under the laws of tanistry. The English gentry was known as chivalry.
Kilts, of coarse can be likened to an earlier garment known as quilted attire, which was primarily worn in battle. This form of garment was normally pleated or ribbed with padding. The padding was sewn in vertically which made a good defense against some swords cuts. Quite often extended below the knees, it was normally worn under an overcoat or a coat of mail armour. It also appears on numerous tombs in Ireland (Eire), Iona, and the western Highlands of Scotland.
A similar garment was worn under the armour in England, and was known as the ahaqueton, or gambeson. The Irish name for it was Cotun. The Chiefs wore a shorter jacket of gilt and colored leather over it, which was better suited for riding horseback. It did nevertheless give an appearance of kilted attire.
A good example of this garment earlier appeared at a tomb of the ruined church of Dungivin, (Glengiven) in County Derry. It was believed to have been worn by an O'Cahan Chief who died in 1385.
A note of interest: The O'Connors of Keenaght, (Cianacht-Clan Cian) and Glengiven were overpowered by the O'Cahans (Cains). The O'Cahans since being noted as O'Cahans of Keenaght.
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